"walking" Dog In Wheelchair
#1
Posted 15 April 2009 - 12:35 AM
#2
Posted 15 April 2009 - 01:41 AM
I work at a humane society an find it almost impossible to walk a dog. The only dog i have been able to walk is no joke a great dane an thats only because they are very calm dogs. Every time he felt his collar pull on his neck he could slow down. The best thing to do is try an take some classes with her. When i have to walk a small dog i just hold the leash in my and an just pass it back in forth between hands. NEVER EVER use those collars that tightens more the harder they pull they just make the dog want to pull harder to get away. I work with a few animal behaviorist i can see what they say. It might be awhile tho before i can get back with you.Does anybody "walk" their dog? I got my girl Roxy just a couple of months before my accident. She's a Sharpei/Terrier mix, so she's super-stubborn, but I love her and will do anything to be able to keep her. I'm moving into an apartment that does not have a back yard for her to run and go potty in, so I have to figure out how to walk her. I've been warned against tying her to my chair by a friend who did the same and ended up having her pelvis disconnected from her spine when her dog tried to run and pulled her chair over. Roxy is not very big, but she is strong. Do I just hold the leash in my hand while I'm wheeling and teach her to heel? Any training tips? Should I use a regular collar or one of those training ones that tightens when she pulls?
#3
Posted 15 April 2009 - 02:08 AM
This dog is about same size as your's, Butterfly... It's trained to walk only on the left side which generally makes things easier to predict. Originally, she was trained with a choker chain on her neck, now an ordinary collar. Getting into regular and frequent habits early makes life simple.
With a leash I slip my hand through the hand-loop and it rests on my wrist, freeing my hands to wheel. Occasionally I grip it for security and it's surprising what a couple of fingers learn to do to allow me to keep on wheelin'. The dog knows only too well to keep away from the wheels and we hardly ever have a problem. Sometimes gotta watch out for trying to go around the wrong side of a post or anticipating a sudden exciting sniff stop (for the dog, not me).
Dog stays happy and I get a fitness workout. We both like it.
#4
Posted 15 April 2009 - 03:46 AM
#5
Posted 15 April 2009 - 03:50 AM
I've been warned against tying her to my chair by a friend who did the same and ended up having her pelvis disconnected from her spine when her dog tried to run and pulled her chair over. Roxy is not very big, but she is strong. Do I just hold the leash in my hand while I'm wheeling and teach her to heel? Any training tips? Should I use a regular collar or one of those training ones that tightens when she pulls?
What a coincidence!
I have a parakeet named Frank who was giving me the same problem. Sucker could pull yer arm clean off tryin' to get at another bird.
Turns out Frank had lived with some guy who raised pit bulls for fighting and through osmosis the dog's aggressive behavior must have rubbed off on him.
Now keep in mind, the bird's wings were clipped so his only means of transport were his legs.
Anyway...
We were out for a stroll one day when Frank spots a pigeon on a fence post 'bout a half a block away. Sucker takes off runnin' like a bat outa hell, I mean this guy wants a piece of that pigeon bad. Course I got both hands on the leash unable to get at the brakes, latch onto a tree or do much of anything else to slow us down so it's the two of us, a big fat guy in a wheelchair being yanked down the middle of the road by a budgie on a leather tether in inclement weather. (it was a cold ass winter, and pouring down rain)
We got as far as a rather decrepit whore house in Tijuana, Mexico (Frank knew some of the gals there and got us a great deal on what appeared to be a pair of septuagenarian rodeo clowns.) To this day Frank assures me they were both female, but I'm not so sure. Not that it matters all that much.
So as you can see, I was confronted with the same problem as you. Well, what I did was amputate one of Frank's legs. With only one leg he could only pull half as hard. Much easier to hang on to. Making a walk in the park just that, a walk in the park.
Course Frank's still pissed off. Friggin' budgie sure can hold a grudgie. But what the hell, every once in a while I'll throw him in a room with a few pigeons and let him have his fun. Makes a horrible mess, blood an' guts everywhere, but he gets his exercise and it does calm him down a bit.
Should you decide to try this, I would use some type of anesthetic before hand as the noise otherwise generated will wake up the neighbors. Then ya got the cops bangin at yer door, the PETA people all down yer throat, yadee yaddee yah. An' who needs that shit, right?
Anyway, hope this helps,
E-dog
I will nevah, EVAH take a pinch from a greasy muddahf*@kah like you!
How 'bout if I spell it out for ya. D-I-L-L-I-G-A-F
#6
Posted 15 April 2009 - 04:21 AM
Edited by twisted_ophelia, 15 April 2009 - 04:24 AM.
http://www.twitter.com/twisted_ophelia
#7
Posted 15 April 2009 - 08:49 AM
#8
Posted 15 April 2009 - 09:06 AM
I have three dogs, one a very strong staff/ridgeback cross, Oscar, that wants to pull. I am currently training them all to walk with my wheelchair as a pack. For some time I have been using a mobility scooter by tying their leashes to an arm rest. They are used to that now, but Oscar still needs quite a lot of correcting.Does anybody "walk" their dog? I got my girl Roxy just a couple of months before my accident. She's a Sharpei/Terrier mix, so she's super-stubborn, but I love her and will do anything to be able to keep her. I'm moving into an apartment that does not have a back yard for her to run and go potty in, so I have to figure out how to walk her. I've been warned against tying her to my chair by a friend who did the same and ended up having her pelvis disconnected from her spine when her dog tried to run and pulled her chair over. Roxy is not very big, but she is strong. Do I just hold the leash in my hand while I'm wheeling and teach her to heel? Any training tips? Should I use a regular collar or one of those training ones that tightens when she pulls?
I originally thought it would be great to let him pull me around in the wheelchair because I know I can control him if he gets too carried away, so I bought a couple of attachments made for bicycles/wheelchairs. These are metal tubes about a foot long, that have a short leash on one end and a bracket that fits to the frame on the other. That way my hands are free and the dogs are held away from the wheels. Great, you would think, eh?
Wouldn't you know it, as soon as I fasten the dogs to the wheelchair, none of them can, so far, be made to pull
I think you just need to try your dog. He may react in the same way as mine, but if you do fasten the leash to the chair, do it low down. That way you will get pulled along and not tipped over. You must also concentrate totally on the dog at first and be ready to correct any unwanted behaviour before it escalates. I agree with T_O that your best advice is likely to be found by watching Cesar Millan. Good luck.
I am not young enough to know everything.
Oscar Wilde (1854 - 1900)
#9
Posted 15 April 2009 - 11:00 AM
You always make me laugh E. Thanks.
I am not young enough to know everything.
Oscar Wilde (1854 - 1900)
#10
Posted 15 April 2009 - 01:57 PM
I had a black lab who died when he was 5 about 2 years ago, but i did take him for a few walks using the long leash that was mentioned its a definate it works.When he would run i would pull it close to my cheast and then press the lock button and then i had the extension of my arm to know if i could hold him or not,lol.I was quite early injury then with new steel work in my back and with a few ribs broken maybe a bit silly but i'm pleased i did now.
Good luck!!
Thats the size he was amber.
#11
Posted 15 April 2009 - 04:14 PM
Our trainer trains gun dogs, well, she will train any dog she says. but all our lessons are with other gun dogs, and we do a few private sessions on top of it too, as theres other things I want my dog to do other than retrieve a pheasant!! I'm not sure where in the world you are.. but we use this trainer... http://trainthatdog.com
It really is wise to have your dog trained, A dog that pulls is great, when its asked to, but having a dog pull, just cos it wants to is just bad manners and lack of control ;)
Edited by ems, 15 April 2009 - 07:10 PM.
#12
Posted 15 April 2009 - 06:23 PM
or theres another type called bun-gee pup-ee http://www.bungeepuppy.com/
the wrist strap i use is called a hands free leash http://www.zooplus.c.../special/129483
i use the dog listners (jan fennell) methods its all about being the pack leader, shes wriiten some good books on how to train your dogs and a dvd is also available.
if your dog is very strong for your own safety you could either use a halti or head collar if your dog will accept one, or i found when i first got my 2nd gsd a halti body harness worked brilliantly as you lead from a ring on the front of harness giving much better control over the dog and making it less able to pull http://www.companyof...lti-harness.php
#14
Posted 15 April 2009 - 08:33 PM
Here's my pup at 12 weeks doing basic heel..
Our trainer trains gun dogs, well, she will train any dog she says. but all our lessons are with other gun dogs, and we do a few private sessions on top of it too, as theres other things I want my dog to do other than retrieve a pheasant!! I'm not sure where in the world you are.. but we use this trainer... http://trainthatdog.com
It really is wise to have your dog trained, A dog that pulls is great, when its asked to, but having a dog pull, just cos it wants to is just bad manners and lack of control ;)
OOOhhh Ems 12 weeks old beautiful!!
#15
Posted 15 April 2009 - 09:22 PM
Edited by Yasko, 15 April 2009 - 09:27 PM.
"If people are good only because they fear punishment, and hope for a reward, then we are a sorry lot indeed." - Albert Einstein
#16
Posted 17 April 2009 - 02:16 AM
I don't have any issues walking my dog at all. As long as dog is well behaved and doesn't pull, you are not going to have any issues. You got to teach him/her not to pull and how to "kneel". Persistency and Flexi Leads is key! Good luck!
My daughter has long wanted a dog and two years ago i got her one, the first dog i've ever owned. I had to wing it in regards to training. Well, i didn't know what i was doing beyond yelling.
I found the Dog Whisper show and learned many things, including on how to walk a dog properly. Instead of letting Tyson pull and dictate our walks, i learned that i had to control things. So i'd stay in place and shorten his leash whenever he didn't listen. As soon as Tyson would take off before i said he could, i'd stop us again. This stuff needed to be repeated many times, but now when i tell him to stay, sit, or don't pull, he almost always listens. The only thing that makes him pull hard or not listen is if a rabbit or squirrel is by us because then his natural instincts to go after them just takes over.
BTW, this is my leash tip if interested. I bought a 20 foot leash that i twist around my arm as we walk. I keep it short as we walk and then when we are by grass areas that he likes to sniff around, i take the loop on the leash and put it over the push arms on the back of my chair.
#17
Posted 17 April 2009 - 08:16 AM
Great that you succeeded with the training but attaching to the push handle is a recipe for getting tipped over.i take the loop on the leash and put it over the push arms on the back of my chair.
If you've given the dog a long leash to sniff around, if it decides to charge after a rabbit, by the time it gets to the end of the leash imagine the momentum it can build up. Attaching it that high on the chair will give you a hard jerk way above your centre of gravity.
Much safer to pull the leash through the end loop - making it a slip loop - and put this low down on the chair before you set out. If the worse then happens the dog will be pulling below your centre of gravity, pulling you along, but not tipping the chair. You can still hold the slack until you are ready to let it have more leash.
Hope that helps.
I am not young enough to know everything.
Oscar Wilde (1854 - 1900)
#18
Posted 17 April 2009 - 07:15 PM
#19
Posted 17 April 2009 - 08:33 PM
#20
Posted 18 April 2009 - 05:31 AM
Great that you succeeded with the training but attaching to the push handle is a recipe for getting tipped over.i take the loop on the leash and put it over the push arms on the back of my chair.
If you've given the dog a long leash to sniff around, if it decides to charge after a rabbit, by the time it gets to the end of the leash imagine the momentum it can build up. Attaching it that high on the chair will give you a hard jerk way above your centre of gravity.
Much safer to pull the leash through the end loop - making it a slip loop - and put this low down on the chair before you set out. If the worse then happens the dog will be pulling below your centre of gravity, pulling you along, but not tipping the chair. You can still hold the slack until you are ready to let it have more leash.
Hope that helps.
My dog is small, a Toy Fox Terrier, he's not strong enough to tip me. If he was a bigger dog though, yea there could be a tipping issue.
#21
Posted 21 April 2009 - 12:09 AM
I have two dogs. A black lab and a yorkie. Both are fine and at the moment iam clicker training the labrador to do tasks like picking things up and opening doors. If your in the UK, then there are places like dogs for the disabled and dog aid who will train your dog up for what you need
hi dogs for disabled dont train owners own dogs they only train spcefically sellected dogs then place them with handlers, as do canine partners, the only two that train your own dog (providing its suitable) are dog aid http://www.dogaid.org.uk/ they train to three levels the third being full assistance dog level, the other oneis support dogs http://www.support-dogs.org.uk/ (last i heard they had very long waiting list and dont usually start training with dogs over 3 yrs old,
hope this helps
#23
Posted 21 April 2009 - 07:07 AM
A small dog is big enough to tip you over if everything is right so connecting her to you is a bad idea. Using Velcro to attach the leash to an arm band would let the leash break free from you if the dog got spooked or chased something. I had the leash on my dog wrapped around my hand when he went after a Quail and the next thing I knew I was laying in the road it happened so fast there was nothing I could do.Thanks so much everybody for the advice, this is extremely helpful. Especially the idea of getting a leash that attaches to your arm rather than your hand, seems like it would put much less strain on the wrist and not jerk back as much while wheeling. Thanks again!
#24
Posted 15 August 2009 - 03:44 AM
I use an electrical stimulus collar now. A very good quality one that has varying levels of stimulus.
I've found the lowest of settings get her attention when needed.
They aren't cheap, but I can't afford to be injured by being yanked out of my chair either.
Some people have mixed emotions about electrical collars. If improperly used, they could be quite frightening to your pet. When mine sees me get her collar, she sits down in front of me with tail wagging while I put it on because she knows she's going for a walk.
My Chesapeak Bay Retriever took to it very quickly, but they are an easy dog to work with.
You may want to talk with a professional trainer first. I suppose some breeds, especially the high strung types could have difficulty with this type of stimulus.
It has made life much more enjoyable for both of us. And yes, I have experienced the collar myself!
#25
Posted 22 April 2012 - 09:20 AM
#26
Posted 23 April 2012 - 03:55 AM
Once I knew that I could bring her to a stop, I knew I could train her. I wanted to train her to pull me (fast) so I do use and recommend a Freewheel (crashed a couple of times without one when the casters hit a rough area).
Re getting your dog to pull, it is one of the most frustrating things. When I was a walker, I could never get my dogs to NOT pull. Now, hooked up to my wheelchair, she won't pull. What I found is that the dog is confused re where you want to go. When you walk the dog (even with a wheelchair) the dog gets clues which way you want to go and will even walk in front of you (as long as you keep giving clues re which way to go). When you want the dog to pull your wheelchair, though, you aren't giving the dog any clues and he gets confused and just stops and sits waiting for a clue. I found that you can go in front with your wheelchair and lead your dog if he won't pull. This will give him a clue re the direction you want to go. Eventually, he may go in front and start pulling (or just in front). Good boy him a lot when he goes back in front. After I had struggled to get my dog to sort of pull me a block (or so), I gave up and turned her around to go back to our vehicle. She pulled like crazy back to the vehicle. I later started calling this behavior "homing pigeon syndrome" and I used it to teach her to pull. I started parking in different places and head her toward a place we had once parked. For a moment, she would forget where we had parked and thought the vehicle was in it's old place. When we got there, I could turn her around and head her back to where we actually did park the vehicle and, once she realized where it was, she pulled real hard again. You start teaching your dog to pull by creating targets. My dog loves the dog park; so I park about a mile away and she pulls me to the dog park. And then pulls us the mile back to the vehicle (homing pigeon syndrome). While still taking her on walks with the electric scooter, I also used all the verbal commands for starting, turning, slowing, etc. It takes awhile of actually pulling you before they realize the verbal commands are now their direction clues. Then it gets fun.
Rodney(ZEN12many)
#27
Posted 23 April 2012 - 04:59 AM
Edited by roo, 23 April 2012 - 05:01 AM.
ROO'S WHEELCHAIR FRIENDLY VILLAS.
http://www.sunnyrothvillas.com email info@sunnyrothvillas.com
#29
Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:10 PM
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