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Stuck Wheelchair Axle


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#1 ColinF

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 05:58 AM

I'm sure this is answered somewhere but the search form isn't working for me right now. I'm trying to get the axles off of my chair and switch them out for a new pair and change the wheels. One came fine but the other is stuck pretty good. Tried a hammer and it's not budging. I'm going to run out in the morning and pick up some wd-40, though I'm not sure if that'll work if I can't get it into the axle chamber. Any ideas? thanks

Edited by ColinF, 11 August 2009 - 06:00 AM.


#2 greybeard

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 07:26 AM

Forget WD40. It is a water dispersant/repellent. It is not a lubricant!

Get some penetrating oil which is designed for easing tight metallic parts.

Edited by greybeard, 11 August 2009 - 08:29 AM.

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#3 KarenFerguson

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 05:30 PM

Hmm, I always use WD40 on my chair ... perhaps I shouldn't? Right now I'm nursing a somewhat rusted bearing on my right front caster. I know I should just buy a new one ... okay now I'm rambling. :) What exact product do you suggest besides WD40?

Edited by KarenFerguson, 11 August 2009 - 05:31 PM.

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#4 greybeard

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 06:26 PM

View PostKarenFerguson, on Aug 11 2009, 06:30 PM, said:

Hmm, I always use WD40 on my chair ... perhaps I shouldn't? Right now I'm nursing a somewhat rusted bearing on my right front caster. I know I should just buy a new one ... okay now I'm rambling. :) What exact product do you suggest besides WD40?

"Get some penetrating oil which is designed for easing tight metallic parts."

Go online and search for "penetrating oil", or go to a car or bike shop and ask for it.

As I stated, WD40 is for removing damp, mainly from electrical components. It was not designed as a lubricant and has been known to cause excessive wear when used as such instead of the correct ant-friction product.

For the right lubricant for your chair, refer to the handbook, or ask at your service provider.

Incidentally the name WD40 stands for Water Dispersant 40. The "40" relates to the number of combinations of ingredients tried before a successful one was found -- so I have been told.

Hope that helps, Karen.

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#5 ColinF

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 08:16 PM

I've asked around and others have recommended I at least try the wd-40 first. So we'll see how it goes.

#6 Tinbasher

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 08:44 PM

Greybeard is being a bit pessimistic although he is right WD40 mainly being a water dispersant it does have penetrating properties. In the UK a good release oil is LUSOL.

You need to know why it's stuck, if the locking balls are jammed you can hit it with a nuclear powered hammer and it wont budge! If its corrosion try release oil and let it sit overnight if that doesnt work try gently heating the axel tube (POURING BOILING WATER ON IT SHOULD BE ENOUGH) and TAPPING it out.

View PostColinF, on Aug 11 2009, 06:58 AM, said:

I'm sure this is answered somewhere but the search form isn't working for me right now. I'm trying to get the axles off of my chair and switch them out for a new pair and change the wheels. One came fine but the other is stuck pretty good. Tried a hammer and it's not budging. I'm going to run out in the morning and pick up some wd-40, though I'm not sure if that'll work if I can't get it into the axle chamber. Any ideas? thanks

Never give up, never slow down.
Never grow old, never die young.

#7 edlee

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Posted 11 August 2009 - 11:00 PM

According to the can,, which I have before me,,, one of it's uses is "freeing sticking fasteners". If you need a good spray for loosening rusted bolts,, the best on the market, here in the states, is called PB Blaster. While I use WD40 for many things,, not the least of which is getting tar off my hardwood floors,,, the Blaster is my only choice for a penetrating solvent.

Neither is truly useful as a lubricant when compared to machine oil. And don't get the blaster on painted surfaces or your clothes. The WD40 is not a problem either place.

good luck
ed

#8 ColinF

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 03:17 AM

thanks. Got some wd40 and some pb blaster. Not sure how it'll get into the axle chamber to loosen things up but we'll see.

#9 Tinbasher

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 08:13 PM

Axel chamber??

We talkin power chair?

Tin

View PostColinF, on Aug 12 2009, 04:17 AM, said:

thanks. Got some wd40 and some pb blaster. Not sure how it'll get into the axle chamber to loosen things up but we'll see.

Never give up, never slow down.
Never grow old, never die young.

#10 Meadowlarkmark

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 08:28 PM

Get a bigger hammer.

#11 edlee

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Posted 12 August 2009 - 10:49 PM

Think gravity, Colon.
ed

#12 ColinF

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 04:56 AM

View PostTinbasher, on Aug 12 2009, 02:13 PM, said:

Axel chamber??

We talkin power chair?

Tin

View PostColinF, on Aug 12 2009, 04:17 AM, said:

thanks. Got some wd40 and some pb blaster. Not sure how it'll get into the axle chamber to loosen things up but we'll see.


Manual. I'm not up on the tech talk, don't know what its called the hole in the center of the wheel where the axle goes and connects to the chair.

View Postedlee, on Aug 12 2009, 04:49 PM, said:

Think gravity, Colon.
ed

I've had the chair sitting in every position imaginable :assassin: on its side right now. I'm probably just going to have to take it in when I can get an appt.

#13 Jax

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 05:34 AM

Collin, what kind of chair is it? The description sounds as if the chair has individual tubes for the axles. If you take the chair and put it on it's side with the stuck wheel flat on the ground, wrap the axle tube with a rag so you don't get any blaster on the rest of the chair, then spray the blaster on the balls in the sides of the axle end, let it sit for about 15 minutes, it should free them. Try taking a pair of channel lock pliers and opening them up to the approximate size of the axle's width, close the ends of the pliers together directly onto the balls on the axle end under the chair while pushing the release button on the other end of the axle. You can put something under the button with the wheel on the floor to make it easier. Make sure the ends of the pliers are what's touching the balls. Any further in, and you risk scoring them, making it even worse. Hope you get it freed.

ed is right on the machine oil. I worked in an auto parts store for several yrs, and the WD40 is great if you don't mind not having any lube left on whatever you use it on withing a feew days of using the WD. The blaster can help free some parts that are stuck (penetrating and helping to move/remove excess junk that causes some stickiness), but the machine oil will work much better for actual lube purpose.

#14 ColinF

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 07:07 AM

View PostJax, on Aug 12 2009, 11:34 PM, said:

Collin, what kind of chair is it? The description sounds as if the chair has individual tubes for the axles.

Colours Shockblade

I

Quote

f you take the chair and put it on it's side with the stuck wheel flat on the ground, wrap the axle tube with a rag so you don't get any blaster on the rest of the chair, then spray the blaster on the balls in the sides of the axle end, let it sit for about 15 minutes, it should free them. Try taking a pair of channel lock pliers and opening them up to the approximate size of the axle's width, close the ends of the pliers together directly onto the balls on the axle end under the chair while pushing the release button on the other end of the axle. You can put something under the button with the wheel on the floor to make it easier. Make sure the ends of the pliers are what's touching the balls. Any further in, and you risk scoring them, making it even worse. Hope you get it freed.

Thank you for that, though I don't think I was clear earlier. The balls and release button work fine. I think the axle got sticky with the grease or whatever on the inside of the wheel and maybe it hardened since I don't take the wheels off very often. I'm not sure exactly, but its not the button or the release balls or button.


Quote

ed is right on the machine oil. I worked in an auto parts store for several yrs, and the WD40 is great if you don't mind not having any lube left on whatever you use it on withing a feew days of using the WD. The blaster can help free some parts that are stuck (penetrating and helping to move/remove excess junk that causes some stickiness), but the machine oil will work much better for actual lube purpose.

ok thanks

#15 Yasko

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Posted 13 August 2009 - 03:12 PM

I believe they call it "axle sleeve"!
Anyway, I would listen to Tinbasher, Greybeard & Meadowlarkmark advices!
Hammer is the key :crash:
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#16 edlee

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Posted 14 August 2009 - 12:20 AM

If I get you right,,, we're talking about the axle/pin that goes through the wheel and the support bracket. There is always a bit of that axle/pin sticking out on the inside of the support bracket, so that the balls that keep it in place can do what they do.

That being the case,,, and I don't really know if it is,,,, go with Yasko's idea,,, bigger hammer. You should be able to tap on that projecting end,,, with the release button pushed,,, that is also the best place to squirt the PB Blaster,,, a few minutes before the tapping starts.

It's amazing what a little well placed vibration, can do to get things moving. For me, vibration comes out as hitting with a properly sized hammer,,, or kicking it,,,, back when I could kick anything, that is.
ed

#17 COOL Mobility

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 10:56 AM

W40 is OK if that is what yu have but it will need a 24 hour soak first. an oil lik Penetrene is better and faster as you will find it is a biuild up of oils, grime and rust that has gunked up the axle in the axle tube. Just soaking in a shallow tin of kerosene will often help too - the solvent will wick up inside the receiverand axle gap.

Most quick release axles have two flats ground into the axle beside the release balls. If you get a shifter on those and twist you should be able to crack the axle loose after a soak. Be aware that it will unscrew a receiver so check that when it moves only the axle moved not both axle and receiver.

Be gentle with a little force as to much will break or bend something!
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#18 ColinF

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 05:58 PM

thanks all, I got it off. A hammer, wrench and 10 minutes of cussing does wonders :)

#19 Meadowlarkmark

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:04 PM

Well, done--see bigger hammer did the trick!

#20 ColinF

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Posted 24 August 2009 - 06:13 PM

It probably would have. Actually I just used the same hammer. But the problem was I wasn't getting a good shot at the axle in the position it was in. So I had to use the wrench to loosen up the nuts that were holding everything in place and take it apart. then the hammer finished it up.

#21 edlee

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 05:03 PM

Don't forget about the cussing,,,, I think that works almost as well as the hammer, sometimes. Always makes me feel better, anyway.
ed

#22 CR_L1

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Posted 25 August 2009 - 06:45 PM

View Postedlee, on Aug 25 2009, 06:03 PM, said:

Don't forget about the cussing,,,, I think that works almost as well as the hammer, sometimes. Always makes me feel better, anyway.
ed
That’s just a fecking stupid thing to say ed

arrrrrrr that feels better :mfrlol: perhaps your right
I am probably depriving a village of an idiot
I use to be indecisive but Im not so sure anymore




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