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Diy: How To Pin And Block Bindings


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#1 outkastsl

outkastsl

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  • Country:Dublin, CA
  • Spinal Injury Level / Relationship:t7/t8 complete para

Posted 27 October 2010 - 05:21 AM

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased 2009 Head/Tyrolia Freeflex Pro 11 bindings and wanted to pin them, so I'm doing a DIY to show you how it's done. This mainly applies to my bindings but with other bindings there shouldn't be too much difference in process.

Tools needed:
-Flat Head Screwdriver
-Phillips Screwdriver
-Ruler
-Pipe cutter
-Drill Bits 7/32 and 5/16
-Drill
-Ruler

Parts needed to pin and block a binding:
-3/4 diameter copper piping (for the toe binding)
-5/16 x 2 3/4 Wire Lock Pin (for the heal binding)

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The unmodified binding
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Let's start with the heal binding. Start by observing the heal binding and how it functions. Then mark where to drill. I start with the 7/32 drill bit as a pilot hole and use the 5/16 drill bit to finish it off. Take your new wire lock pin and insert it into the newly drilled hole. Now your binding is pinned and will not release. The rear binding only takes about 3 minutes to complete.

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Now to the toe binding. You want to remove the spring screw in the front with a flat head screw driver, then remove all the remaining screws on top of the binding (4) and bottom (2).

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Once that is done. You want to CAREFULLY pry the cover of the toe binding out. You want to do this carefully because everything inside is held by the spring and everything will fly out if you are not careful. This will cause you to not know how to put it back together. This is how my binding looks when the cover is off.

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Next, we take the spring out and measure it. The spring in my binding is 1 3/4" in length. Then take the copper piping and mark it half of an inch shorter than the spring. I did this to compensate the spring compressing and allowing the front spring screw to have enough threads to screw in with. Once marked, cut the pipe.

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before and after:
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Partially reassembled:
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and done:
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If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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