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Modifications To Cars, Sliding Doors, Suicide Door


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#1 *Guest_David*

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 05:09 AM

My mother has been paralyzed from the waist down for the past 18 years and is fully abled other wise. She has been driving a van with no modifications, other than hand controls, and she is able to throw her wheel chair into the van behind her for years. (Dodge Caravan with driving side sliding door)

She is getting to the age where she is not so able to lift her chair with one arm and put it into a van. I think that is quite a physical feat for anyone at any age.

Any, she is looking to shop for a new vehicle that will be more suited to her needs. Here is the twist, as one could expect, she lives her life just as any other person would, she just happens to get around in a wheelchair, and that attitude is certainly a factor in car options. She does not want some car-top carrier, that she feel would put on a show in the grocery parking lot, she doesnt wan an eye-sore type modifcation.

Getting to my real questions, what options are there out there?? Can you take a wagon-type car with two driver side swinging doors and make one of them a sliding door?? What suv's are out there that have either a sliding door or a suicide door (ie: the Honda Element) are there others??

We are looking for A) something that she can easily put her chair into, so
:) something low to the ground, perhaps a car not a van or SUV but we might have to deal with what we have to deal with.

can any help with some suggestions??

thanks
DAVE

#2 Joed

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 07:21 PM

Some of the mini-SUV's might work out for her. I drive a Toyota Rav-4...we were able to get my electric w/c into the back without folding down any of the back seats. I wouldn't be able to do it alone, as I don't have a lift or ramps, but I would have no problem with a manual w/c, but I'm able, with a brace, to hobble to the driver's door from the back end on my own.

I believe that the little SUV's are a bit lower to the ground than the full-size ones. I don't know anything about converting one of the driver's doors into a sliding though. A call to your local van conversion business should provide some info on that.
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Female. Incomplete para following a cord stroke in '03. Spina-bifida, severe scoliosis. 18 surgeries total...five spine-related: Three fusions w/hardware, two tethered cord releases.

#3 studinchair

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 07:34 PM

i know they are starting to do the honda element as a ramp vehicle that is really not a suv and my wife loves her's

#4 *Guest*

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Posted 28 November 2005 - 08:59 PM

I used to have a honda element also and I loved it. It was plenty big for my husband's wheelchair and because it has plastic floors it is easy to get mud up after a rainy day.

#5 Upstate

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Posted 01 December 2005 - 06:16 AM

Dave:
Another possibility is the Toyota Scion. It's low and doesn't look like a van.

#6 AHolland

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Posted 02 December 2005 - 12:32 AM

I have a car that I can drive if someone helps me pour myself inside. One thing we did was to rework the door hinges so the door would open wider. This allows me to get my wheelchair closer to the seat and transfer easier. In a lot of cases modifying the door hinges is fairly easy and inexpensive. Watch to see that the door does'nt open too wide and contact the front fender.
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#7 bdmpastx

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Posted 29 December 2005 - 07:16 PM

There is a company near my home in Houston that is doing the modifications on the Scion XB (A small box type wagon made by the Toyota company). They also make the Entervan's here.
Check out this website on some of the different conversions. They even have cars with lifts!
The Entervan
Here is a website of the place near my house.
http://www.adaptivedriving.com/
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#8 pistol24

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Posted 04 January 2006 - 03:27 PM

Maybe way off here, but Braun converts the Chevy Uplander and Buick Terrazza (sp?) with lowered floor and ramp. They are classified as minivans, but I think they have a more rugged look than traditional minivans. There is also a company in Florida called Ryno which converts full size trucks, for what its worth.

#9 AHolland

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Posted 15 March 2006 - 11:23 PM

Hi, I had an email request from one of the members regarding my comments on car door opening. I am not sure my return email got to them so I am posting it here in case others have questions too. Original comments edited out.

Hi,

I am up in Canada, so not that far away and familiar with north american cars. My car is a 1997 Buick Lesabre. You reference to the post did not come across correctly so I will go with what I have done. It is quite common up here, but very dependant on the vehicle. The changes can usually be done by anyone handy, or your local mechanic. A body man is usually not required. If you give me your make and year of car, I might be able to be of more assistance. Anyhow, her is some explaination....Ok, did a search on the forums and picked up the post.

Anyhow, there are three things that affect how wide the door opens: How the hinge is hung relative to the car, How wide open the normal hinge stop has been set at, and thrirdly (is hat a word? lol) How far back the front fender has been designed to be. I will try to explain using my car as a reference.

When GM manufactured my car, the thought was that a normal person would enter the door. GM did not want the door to open too far for a few reasons. Initially, they did not want a door to open so far that a car parked beside mine would be hit by the door. Secondly, if the door opens too far then the person sitting in the front seat has to lean out too far to close the door. Sound reasonable? Therefore, GM has set the door stop on the hinge in a position to limit how far that door will swing open.

First the good news. If you open the door fully and look at the hinge. There are a couple of parts, but you will see that a small finger from one side of the hinge, contacts a bump on he otherside of the hingle limiting how far the door can be open. If you grind away a portion of the finger, then you can increase how far the door can open. Even very small amounts taken off of the hinge results in a large difference in how far the door can open.

Some bad news. Walk around to the outside of the door to where the front fender gets close to the door. Between the door and the fender is a small crack separating the two. As the door opens more and more, this crack "usually" reduces. You do not want the door opening to the point where the door contacts the front fender.

Back to some good news. This is very dependant on the vehicle make and setup. As you grind away the finger, you may not close that crack depending on how the hinge is made. It's really a trial and error thing. In my case, that crack never closed up because the door swung inwards away from the fender as the hinge was worked on. Secondly, the front fender is mounted on a few points. If you unscrew the fender, you may be able to pull it a small ways forward away from the door. Again a bit of trial and error. The small distances moved are usually never noticable to most people unless you really point them out. You simply have to try it out. As I said, dependant on the vehicle and a bit of trial and error. Lucky enough, there is little risk in making the attempt.

Some cautions. On the door hinge there is a little roller that rides along the metal sort of like a wheel. I should really get my camera out and take pictures. let me know if you need me to do this. The "normal" stop point has this little wheel sitting in a little half circle on the other half of the hinge. If you push the door open too far, the door will normall swing a bit closed. As you grind the hinge you will normally get this little wheel to ride out of the divot. I don't see that as any big deal. As the door swings farther out, you should also check to see where the door swings to inside the fender area. Over grinding the hinge may allow the door to contact the inside of the body near the hinge.

A few notes. It's no big deal if the door opens too wide. Usually handicapped parking allows for wider door openings. If the door sits too wide, then you can always connect a little strap to the door and to somewhere insdie the car so the person does not have to reach too far out to get the door closed. just pull on the strap. At some point, you may not be able to grind the hinge any more. From this point you can still get a bit more door opening. The half of the hinge that is connected to the car (not the door) is mounted by 3 or 4 bolts. If you loosen off the bolts you can sometimes insert some heavy washers between the car and the hinge on the two bolts furtherst from the fender. The result of this is the door tends to be open a bit more from the get-go. Most doors when mounted this way have no problem with the door still closing or lining up correctly. There is no reason for GM to add more washers and hence more work to the car than necessary.

Some answers. On my car, the normally hung door opened to about 45 degrees (half way open). When some simple grinding on the hinge stops resulted in opening closer to 75 degrees. Any more opening than this and you don't gain much and it's usually a chunk of work.

I hope this all made sense. I can take photo's and post them on the forums if you think it would help more. Take a look at the hinge and see if my directions make sense. If you know anyone handy with a dremel or other type fo grinder, than you can usually experiment without doing much work.


Let me know what else you may need. As I said, it is often very dependant on the vehicle as to how much success you can have. Watch the fender to door contact and the door to car frame contact. Grind a little and you may be surprised. I do not pay for long distance phone calls so if you wanted, I could call you to talk about it more. Just put down a phone number and best times to call and I will let you know by email or phone if I can do those times. Alternately try it out and see what comes.

AHolland
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